Restaurants in Ankara: Balikcikoy

BalikCikOy is a fish restaurant that is popular  in Ankara and provides a relaxed atmosphere and a typical Turkish fish restaurant experience.  Usually your group will be seated and immediately served without the aid of menus.  Appetizers will be brought automatically for the table, followed by the main course of the day and concluded with fruit platters and sweets.  Enough food to feed the group will be served and will be served "family style".  It is traditional for raki to be drunk with fish dinners and copious amounts will be available to you while you dine.  The most accessible Balikcikoy restaurant is on Abay Kunanbay Cd. in TunalI.  To get there, walk 10 minutes south on Ataturk Blvd from Kizilay until you reach TunalI Cd. and Swan park on your left.  Turn left, or east, onto TunalI and then turn right onto Abay Kunanbay Cd. at the McDonalds. There is a McDonalds on the corner.  The second restaurant location is in the suburb of UmitkOy at 8. Cd. No: 73 Galeria  Yani.  Enjoy!

Disinfecting Bread in Turkey

Loaves of white crusty bread are commonly sold on the streets, in the markets and in the stores of Turkey.  These loaves of bread are often seen being handled unwrapped by multiple people, laid on counters, and dropped in plastics bags; seemingly without care of the bread getting dirty or harbouring germs.   However, many Turks counteract this potential hygiene issue by rolling the loaf of bread across the gas flame of the stove.  This is referred to as "disinfecting" the bread.  Be careful not to toast the bread, you merely want to touch the surface area of the crust quickly with the flame of the burner in order to kill any unwanted bacteria that may be hiding.

Ankara Citadel: Shopping and Culture

The Ankara citadel is an interesting mix of many different sights and activities.  To begin with, the citadel looms over Ulus and Ankara with its Roman towers atop.  Although the northern tower is not enterable and difficult to find, the eastern tower is flanked with small cafes hotels and tourist boutiques, as well as one of the oldest mosques in Ankara: Alaettin Cami (dating to 1100).  The northern tower is best enjoyed from below the citadel looking up.  On the way up the hill to the citadel, you can glimpse the remains of Ankara's Roman theatre. 

Alonside the historical architecture, the citadel boasts the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, which has won awards in the past.  The citadel is also home to the Ankara Industrial Museum. 

The shopping on the citadel can be divided into three parts:  art, tourist and spice.  Behind the archaeology museum you will see a medium sized spice market where you can shop for dry goods of all kinds.  Continuing up the hill, through the tower gates, you will find small tourist shops and cafes.  Continuing down the hill from the spice market you will find tourist shops, including shops that specialize in basket making.  One shop imparticular that is recommended is "Yore".  If you continue past the spice market and down the otherside of the hill, you will find yourself in a more upscale, albeit small, area of the citadel that has art galleries of sculpture, bronze and painting.  This is good area to go if you are looking for high quality traditional crafts or artifact reproductions.

To get to the citadel:
The Metro can be taken to the Ulus stop, and by sight one can walk towards the citadel's high peak.  This walk can prove long and tedious if the weather is hot or walkers are not in strong health. 
A bus or dolmus can be taken towards "Altindag" (meaning "under the mountain") and you will be dropped closer to the peak than with the metro. 
Taxis' are the most convenient way to get to the citadel's peak; allowing vistors to amble back down towards the subway stop.  To ask for the citadel, use the word "kale". 

Ankara: Ebru Lessons

Ebru has been previously described on this blog.  It is a fun, relaxing and traditional method of painting using oil and water to transfer paints.  If you are interested in taking a lesson, either private or with friends, the information below will lead you to a flexible, talented and experienced Ebru teacher:

Information: Hulya Eroglu, Ebru Sanatcisi, hulya_nur_eroglu@hotmail.com

Grape Molasses: Uzum Pekmezi

Grape molasses is a food stuff that can be found in many, if not most, Turkish homes.  Many foreigners refer to it as grape molasses, but it has the consistency more along the lines of syrup. 

It is eaten mixed with or drizzled over tahini and eaten on bread.  Also, many people eat one or two spoonfuls as a cold remedy or to boost iron intake.  It is seen as a very healthy food and can be found in the jam section of grocery stores.

Traditions: Throwing a Cup of Water

There are numerous traditions and superstitions in Turkey, and as in any culture, they vary from area to area and from generation to generation. Some traditions continue to be common, others are practiced by the older generations and others have become folklore.

One interesting tradition is throwing a cup of water after a car that is starting out on a long journey. This tradition is still commonly practiced and loosely translates into "go as easily as water". Or, more simply, "safe trip!".

The Tradition of Lead Melting

There is an old tradition in Turkish culture that is used to get rid of bad luck. It involves pouring melted lead into a bowl of water. The steam that is produced by doing so is sometimes seen as a cleansing action. The lead will immediately solidify in the water and then can be "read" to see if your bad luck will end and what your near future will bring. The lead can be found at mechanic and hardware type stores and tends to come in thin sheets. The lead can be melted in a pot on the stove, or in a spoon over a flame. Do not use the pot again, as lead is toxic. There are many interpretations of this tradition, including holding the bowl over your head as you pour in the lead. The reading of the lead is a personal thing, however some shapes (such as the lead curling into a ball) have more universal meanings.

Ankara Opera

The best thing about opera is that it is never in English anyways, so going to see one in Turkey is not as difficult as theater would be.

The Ankara opera house has a varied program and simultaneously puts on different operas. For January 2010, the schedule is:

Aida by Verdi: January 16 2010
Idomeneo by Mozart: January 20 2010
Viva la Mama by Donizetti: January 27, 30 2010
A Night in Venice by Strauss: January 18 2010

Getting Your Hair Cut in Ankara

Hair stylists, salons, or kuafors are everywhere you look in Ankara. Many that are recommended on the 2nd and 3rd floors of buildings, so always remember to look up when choosing a hair dresser.

What to look for: If you are a man, the words "Erkek Kuafor" or "Bay" on the window is what you are looking for. For women, look for the word "Bayan" on the window before going in.

All hair stylists in Turkey tend to be men, whether you are getting a female style or male style. Often you will be served by 2-5 different males throughout your haircutting experience. The service is truly wonderful.

Men will have the option to get a beard trim, shave, neck trim or eyebrow trim. When trying to describe what you wish your cut to look like, remember that kisa means short and uzun means long. For men, a haircut should not cost more than 7-10TL

Women will find the prices at the kuafor amazingly inexpensive compared to western prices. A haircut in Kizilay can cost as little as 7TL, however if your Turkish is poor then you will definately be subject to foreign price increases up to 30 or 40 TL.

Here are some kuafor words to help you out:

kesme: cut (noun)
kesmek: to cut (verb)
saC: hair
kIsa: short
uzun: long
kat kat: layers
resim: picture
kaS: eyebrow
gOzluk: glasses
kuru: dry
sampuan: shampoo
renk: colour
shave: tIraS etmek (verb)

Turkish Marbelling: Ebru

The Turkish art of marbelling, or Ebru, can be seen at a special exhibit being held at the Ankara Art Gallery in Ulus. The exhibition is on the main floor, is free, and will only take about 10-15 minutes to check out.

Marbelling is a process of dropping natural dye pastes onto thickened water. The paint is manipulated with various brushes and tools to create both innovative and traditional designs. As the paint swirls on the surface of the gummed water, paper is placed onto the paint into order to transfer the design to the surface.

If you are interested in learning or trying this art form, there are artists in Ankara who offer lessons. More information to follow.

Also, Eskisehir's local government has funded free ebru classes for anyone who wishes to learn. The artist is employed by the municipality and is very well known as a marbelling artist in Turkey. Eskisehir is only 1.5 hours away by fast train! Enjoy.

Ankara versus Istanbul

A interesting article yesterday talking about the culture of Ankara in the face of Istanbul's title as cultural capital of Europe this year.

http://www.sundayszaman.com/sunday/detaylar.do?load=detay&link=198059

Ankara's Art Museum and Ethnography Museum

On a hill south of Ulus, overlooking the city, stand two Ottoman period buildings that respectively house the Ethnography Museum and the Art Museum. These two museums are side by side, with an impressive statue of Ataturk riding a horse out front. The Ethnography Museum costs 3TL to enter and the Art Gallery is free of charge; both are closed between the hours of 12 and 1. The address is: Talat Pasa Bulvari, Samanpazari. It is easy to walk to from Ataturk Blvd--it is on the east side of the blvd and slightly south of Ulus. You can see the Luna Park ferris wheel from the front of the museums.

If you are newly living in Ankara, it is of course a must that you check out the culture that Ankara has to offer. The Ethnography Museum is worth the 30 minutes it will take you to walk around the window displays of cultural events past and present. The displays are colourful, lively and well displayed. The Art Gallery next door is free, but can be a dismal experience in some ways. It is not well frequented and the art work is not well cleaned. Currently there is a marbling exhibit on the first floor that is quite nice, albeit too small to be the sole reason for visiting.

The grand buildings that house these two museums are beautiful and architecturally interesting. Ataturk's body was temporarily enshrined in the current Ethnography Museum while the mausoleum was being constructed. In both buildings there are many interesting old photographs of Ataturk and modern Ankara history.

Visting a Turkish Home

When visiting a Turkish home, remember to always remove your shoes. The host may offer you slippers; which is nothing to do with the state of your socks. They are merely worried about drafts, and the temperature of your feet.

Also, if you have been invited there for a meal or event, remember to bring sweets of some kind. Although in North America flowers and wine are also good choices, in Turkey flowers are tend to be associated more with illness and alcohol is not always welcome. Stick with baklava or cookies.

Inside the Hamam

Once you have entered the hamam, you will be led to a change room and be given a basin and towel. Come out with your soap and shampoo and basin with you. If you having services such as waxing, pedicure or manicure, then you will be taken to a space outside the actual baths to have this done.

Afterwards, you go into the baths. In the middle of the hamam area is a large marble table. Around the walls of the hamam area will be shallow marble sinks and benches. There is usually a sauna in this area as well. At this point, you are expected to sit on a bench and begin dousing yourself with warm water, using the basin. You will do this until your masseuse is ready for you. Do not use soap or shampoo when sitting at these basins.

When your masseuse is ready for you, she will ask you to lie down on the marble table. If you have brought your towel, you can lie on top of it, but it really serves no purpose at this point. It will only get dirty and wet.

The masseuse will begin scrubbing you with a sandpaper like scub and dead skin will begin to fall off your body. The masseuse will ask you to take off your bathing suit top, and will also pull down your bottoms at various points in the massage.

After the exfoliation, you will be given a soapy massage, rinsed off, and then you are finished. Remember to take a cold shower on your way out to close your pores.

After you are finished, you will pay on the way out. Hamams serve beverages, which you can have before during and after your time there.

Enjoy!

Going to the Hamam in Ankara

There are many hamams in Ankara, with the oldest ones being in Ulus. Hotels will also have a modern, expensive version of the hamam as a part of their spa services.

What you need to bring to the hamam:

1. A bar of soap

2. Two piece bathing suit

3. Shampoo and conditioner (optional)

4. Your own hamam sponge (optional)

5. Your own flip flops or waterproof slippers (optional)

The hamam will provide you with a towel, slippers, a basin for water and a changing room or locker. If you are concerned about hygiene, bringing your own sponge and slippers is a good idea. Often the hamams will sell sponges for 5TL if you want one.

When you enter the hamam, ask for a price list before you are shuffled off to a change room, as foreigners are often charged too much. Once they get to know you as a regular, this will change.

Do not be intimidated by the amount of people and staring that might take place the first time you go. The ladies will lead you around as needed.

The following services will be charged seperately:

1. Entrance fee to the hamam in general, allowing you to enter the baths and use the sauna.

2. Massage fee, based on the length of massage you ask for. 10-15 minutes is a typical length. Often the price will be by the minute.

3. Waxing

4. Pedicure/Manicure

The following website has a list of some hamams in Ankara with their addresses: http://www.ankara.com/turkish_baths.html

Breakfast Foods in Turkey

A very typical Turkish breakfast will consist of a combination of the following foods; and is served family style in small dishes: bread, olives (zeytin), fresh tomatoes, fresh cucumber, white cheese (beyaz peynir), hard boiled eggs and garlic sausage (sucuk)

Other breakfast foods:

1. simit: simit is circular sweetish bread that is sold on the streets for 3-4 pieces for 1TL. It is best when hot, as it can be dry and hard later in the day. If you look hard, in Ankara you can always find a simit vendor who sells triangle packaged soft cheese to eat with the simit, which adds to the meal greatly.

2. borek: borek consists of filo-like pastry layered with cheese, potatoes, spinach or sometimes meat. It is served in large squares and is delicious. However, it is a hit or miss food when bought on the street or in a restaurant. Often it can be extremely oily; which takes away from the flaky pastry experience. It is easy to make at home, but if not, make sure you buy it at a proper bakery.

3. menemen: is essentially a Turkish version of the omelet, and if often advertised as one in restaurants. Tomatoes, egg, olive oil, and peppers are scrambled together in a pan. You can order it spicy or non. It will be served with bread. Often, Turks will wait until after breakfast to take their coffee. Enjoy!

Hunting in the Rural Areas

Outside of the cities, farmers will hunt the wild boar that abound in the rural areas. They cut off the tail of the pig and send it into the local government to get a reward for lessening the pig population.

Salted Coffee for Fiancees!

I was told a funny tradition that takes place when a daughter's fiance first comes for dinner or coffee. The mother or aunt salts the coffee. If the man does not react and still compliments the mother's cooking, then he's a taker!

Ordering Take-out Food and/or Groceries

Turkey has some great delivery services. The best service for ordering food in is: http://ankara.yemeksepeti.com/
This website has hundreds of restaurants in Ankara listed, complete with menus. You can order directly online without speaking to anyone and choose when you want the food to arrive. When you first register, they will call you to confirm your account and speak some English. After that, your account is activated.

For groceries, Migros has a large delivery service in Ankara. You can order online at www.migros.com.tr. Once you enter the website, click on "sanal market" and then choose your city. There is an English version of the online market, although the food names and ingredients are often not translated.

How to Make Turkish Tea

Although tea bags and foreign teas are widely available, the most common way to make tea in Turkey is in the double pot on the stove.

1. Boil water in the bottom pot alone.

2. Add loose tea to the smaller pot, and add some of the boiled water to it.

3. Allow to steep; with the two pots on top of each other.

4. Before serving, bring water in the bottom pot to a boil again, without removing the top pot.

5. Serve by first adding the steeped strong tea from the top, and then adding water from the bottom.

6. Serve in small handle-less tea glasses on saucers with a tiny tea spoon. Provide only sugar for your guests.